Japan not (so) Expensive. A Sensible Land of the Rising Sun Travel Budget
- Neemod
- Jul 8, 2023
- 16 min read
Updated: Jul 29, 2023
My cousin did some backpacking in Japan years ago. He got there after traveling around India for a few months. Forget culture shock and talk about taxi-fare shock, which set him back about $70 from the airport.
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Really, It's all Relative!
But that is the point. Japan is expensive compared to many classic Asian backpacking destinations and that distorts people's perspective about it. For US $4 you can get a bowl of Japanese Gyudon (a yummy mix of rice and beef). Certainly a good bargain. But it is still about 300% more expensive than a plate of Pad-Thai from a street vendor in Bangkok.
Perspective aside, I found Japan cheaper than many Western destinations, Patagonia, or even; considering the cost of safaris; some African destinations. I was really surprised it wasn't as budget-unfriendly as I heard. A big part of it is that sightseeing and transportation are not costly at all.
My Complete 44 days Budget
Accommodation – $1291.92. Daily average $29.36
Food and dining – $731.91. Daily average $16.63
Transportation (including all long-distance and local) – $458.95. Daily average $10.43.
Sightseeing and activities – $120.23. Daily average $2.73.
Miscellaneous (including laundry service) – $20.04. Daily average $0.45
Total – $2623.05
Total daily average - $59.61
Additional Personal and Optional Expenses
International flights – obviously this is very different from one person to another. I came to Japan from Bali and left for Moscow. Tokyo is well connected, but with fewer direct flights than one would expect. The cheapest international flights out of the country are to South Korea.
Shopping – I spent $173.39. This varies and can easily be $0 or a few hundred dollars for different people. I spent this on gifts for friends, toiletries, and some hiking gear.
Nightlife and drinking – I generally don't drink much alcohol and especially not in a country where nursing a hangover means wasting $60 the next day on accommodation and food. But it's always interesting to see a country's nightlife, so I made a point to drink not just for the sake of drinking. You can expect to pay $6 for beer in Japan and about $8 for sake.
Golden Gai in Tokyo is an area where 200 small bars line the narrow alleys. Its old-school atmosphere contrasts the somewhat sketchy neighborhood of nearby Kabukicho – Tokyo's nightlife and red light district (minus the red lights or the display windows). Each bar has its own distinctive décor, character, and guaranteed interaction with the patrons. Some bars don't accept tourists since seating is reserved for regulars. Many charge a $4-$5 cover fee, but most don't mind if you just take a look inside.
Osaka is much more of a party town than Tokyo, at least that's how it feels in colorful Dotonbori where you can easily find numerous fun bars while enjoying good street food and the extravagant signage.
Travel insurance – if you come for a short period check with your credit card as it may offer free coverage. Otherwise, it's an extra $2-$3 a day. Mine was slightly more because it included coverage for extreme sports activities but, unless you ski or plan on multi-day hiking, this extra coverage is probably redundant. Some providers will let you activate this extra coverage on the specific days you would need it.
Had I only slept in dorms and kept a stricter food budget I could have pushed my daily average down to $55 or even less. If you camp and hitchhike even $40 or less is not out of the question!
One important thing to note is that I visited during the quiet shoulder season at the end of May and June. Having a few rainy days and some heat was still a good tradeoff for fewer crowds and somewhat cheaper travel options. It goes without saying that if you visit during the cherry blossom peak season you should be prepared to pay more than I did. Gyodon however, can always be had for less than a Big Mac meal.
Transportation
The slower you travel the cheaper it gets, and Japan has a complete spectrum of travel speed options. An exception to this is that sometimes a (low-cost) flight will be cheaper than a bullet train.
Japan has probably the best rail network in the world. But for my 5 weeks trip in the country I used mostly busses and occasionally local trains. It was much cheaper than getting the JRPass.
The JR Pass Dilemma
One of the most common recommendations when planning a Japan trip is to get the Japan Rail Pass, AKA the JR Pass. It allows for unlimited travel in the entire network of Japan's biggest rail company, including the famous Shinkansen the 320 km/h (200 mph) bullet train.
The pass is available for 7, 14, or 21 days. One catch is that it needs to be obtained before you arrive in Japan, making it an unspontaneous budget consideration. Still, the unlimited option makes it sound like a great bargain, right?
Well, not exactly. It depends on your travel style.
The JR Pass will work for you if you travel Japan in under a month, move quickly between destinations (staying only 2-3 days in each), cover very long distances, and most importantly fly out of the country from the same city you landed at.
Another scenario when it may be worth getting is during peak tourist seasons. A friend told me it worked for him because he would sometime take a bullet train to a different city just to get cheaper accommodation (or to have accommodation at all).
The Bussing It Alternative
If, however, you travel for longer than a month, spend more time in each location, focus on the center of the country, and fly out of your last destination, then it is most likely the JR Pass will cost you more than using busses and the occasional train.
For me, it wasn't even about the money, but about not feeling obligated to keep moving just because I spent money on an expensive pass. It's just more of a Neemod spirit this way.
Let me give you some numbers. A regular class 21 days JR Pass costs US$532 (2019 pricing).
That is $25.33 a day. You can also use it to get around Tokyo or Osaka, but since the local subway costs only $9-$12 for a daily pass (depending on the distance and networks used) it makes sense to activate the JR Pass only once you leave the big cities! The pass doesn't cover the airport train in Tokyo.
After leaving Tokyo I spent only $278.51 on transportation in the next 21 days, including all local transportation. That is a $253.49 saving! In fact, my entire transportation costs, including all Tokyo and Osaka's subways and airport trains, for the 44 days I spent in Japan was only $458.7 still cheaper than a 21 days pass! And with those savings I had the freedom to go or stay in a place for as much as I liked it.
The reason why this works is that while Japan is not a small country, the main areas of interest for tourists are concentrated between Tokyo and Osaka, a distance of only about 500km/310 miles. It is clear that spending $532 for covering such a distance is not a good deal. Obviously the 7 days pass is cheaper, but not more than a bus. And who can see so much of Japan in only 7 days anyway?
From Tokyo I went as far as Kobe, which is probably my favorite city in Japan. Had I gone all the way to Hiroshima I would have had to add about $70 for a return trip to Osaka.
My exact itinerary was Tokyo > Fuji Yoshida > Takayama > Kamikochi > Matsumoto > Hakuba (RT from Matsumoto with local train) > Kanazawa > Kyoto > Osaka >Kobe (RT from Osaka with local train) > Nara (RT from Osaka with local train).
The Japan Guide website has excellent information for bus travel around the country. I also used Willer Express (which requires some understanding of Japanese prefectures) and Japan Bus Online. Both work in English and if you don't find a destination in one just try the other. You can also book directly at the bus station. There is no difference in price but sometimes (if they speak decent English) it can be helpful in planning.
You can compare these with train travel options (including local trains) on either HyperDia (popular but not too user-friendly in my opinion) or Jorudan.
Hitchhiking?
It's not very common, but Japan being one of the safest countries in the world is a good place to try this free transportation option. Japanese are fascinated by foreigners and giving you a ride might be a really interesting experience for them. I haven't done it myself, but have a friend who did it a few times. He said the drivers went out of their way (literally) to get him to his destination, which is typical of Japanese culture. In big cities you will have to get to the outskirts and maybe find a strategically located gas station instead of trying to hail a ride from a road.
Accommodation
My total accommodation budget of $1291.92 included a rather expensive airport hotel ($62.88) a couple of $45.63 Airbnb rentals and two more $42.94 hotel rooms. Take these out and my daily average for 39 nights was only $26.97. Considering I managed to score a private room for 17 days out of my 44 days and this is not so bad at all.
No matter what kind of accommodation you use, many will require you to take your shoes off indoors and even use separate slippers (provided by the establishment) for the bathroom. Not being a fan of sharing footwear I just carried my own pair of flip-flops and explained I only use them inside, which was rarely an issue.
I found accommodation options were always more expensive and in short supply on weekends. Even during the low season I traveled accommodation options got filled up with locals enjoying their beautiful country. This is true in most countries but proved extra challenging in Japan and required me to always book weekend accommodation a few days in advance. Not a big deal if you do some planning, but do take this into account.
Another thing to be aware of is late check-in times. 4 PM and even later is not uncommon. Hotels and hostels need this for their meticulous cleaning. But even if your room or bed is clean and ready there is rarely any flexibility. A few times, in smaller hotels, I also found the reception desk was empty while the staff was busy cleaning. If you are on a tight schedule this can really eat up your time. You may want to lock your luggage at a bus or train station and do some sightseeing until the official check-in time.
Hostels
You will not find hostel beds for less than $15/night. In high season and on short notice it is hard to find beds for less than $23-$25/night. What is available gets booked very quickly.
In Japan you can be spontaneous or you can be on a budget, but you cannot be both. The big cities have more choices and will have some chances of getting a sub $20 bed if you book a week or so in advance. Small towns are more challenging in this regard.
In Tokyo I did look into a couple of the cheaper hostel options. One was crowded and the other spacious but lacking in atmosphere. Neither was a bad option or felt too different from the slightly sleeker and more expensive choices.
Hostels in Japan are generally of high quality, very clean (as expected), have good kitchens, reading lamps in bed, and other creature comforts. But one odd thing is that many have thin futon mattresses that I found uncomfortable and became a major factor in my booking decisions. It's not just because of tradition but so the staff can easily fold or move them to clean the beds thoroughly.
If you want to try something different, there are also some traditional Japanese hostels. Instead of dorm beds guests sleep on futons on the floor in a shared open space.
Capsules and Cabins
Capsule hotels are one of those Japanese things you have to try at least for one night. With their plastic doors, checking into these sleeping compartments is like entering a giant washing machine. They are not that different from hostel dorms, just with more perks and privacy. They are also similarly priced to hostels, although some go as much as $45/night but include spa access and breakfast. Honestly, I don't think they make a good value and certainly are not very social.
The capsules themselves are lined in crowded rows and you can't do much inside but sleep. Not exactly ideal if you are claustrophobic. I don't have a problem with tight spaces, but it did take a bit of getting used to.
Capsule hotels are aimed at business travelers and storage space is limited. Lockers are provided, but if your backpack can't fit inside you will have to leave it with the reception. Capsules hotels used to accept only male guests, but nowadays they usually have separate floors or rooms for females.
Cabins are an evolution of the capsule concept and a much better value! I paid as little as $22/night for one and $33.65 for another. Cabins are like small rooms that fit a bed and not much else (I had one with a small desk and a chair.) While small, they are vertically spacious – you can walk in and stand up. This makes them much more comfortable than capsules.
The two cabins I stayed at only had accordion doors and no windows. The accordion doors didn't even extend to the ceiling. Make sure to bring your earplugs as you can hear everyone on the floor.
I had one unfortunate night when my floor was filled with marathon runners who, for some odd reason, woke up at 4AM. I guess they had to cook pasta or something before their race. They made so much noise my earplugs didn't help. But other than that I enjoyed the value I got in the 8 days I stayed in this middle-ground between dorms and real rooms.
Hotel Rooms
How about a private hotel room (with a real door) for just $22.49? In Tokyo I was stunned to discover hotel rooms that, at least on weekdays, were cheaper than dorm beds! These were all by the Minami-Senju metro, about 20 minutes ride from many central Tokyo attractions. It's not an issue if you just want to do sightseeing, but if you are planning on going out past midnight, when the trains stop running, you will need to pay for expensive taxi rides.
This residential area was dead at night, but not unsafe. It had limited dining options and initially I had to get food from the 7-Eleven. I later discovered a small shopping area on the other side of the metro station (not the side where all the hotels are) with a few restaurants including a little pricey but tasty Indian place.
Outside Tokyo I had a harder time finding similar bargains. But even for $30-$35 it made a good deal (relatively speaking) to sometime pay the few extra dollars for a private room over a capsule or a dorm bed.
Couch Surfing and Camping
More than many other countries, Couch Surfing in Japan is not just about saving money but about a cultural experience, for both you and your hosts.
There is no lack of hosts who would love to learn about your culture and practice English. That being said, hosts who speak decent English get a lot of hosting requests and have limited availability. My spontaneous itinerary made it even harder to find availability, but if you can send your request at least a week ahead of time you might find something.
I didn't do camping, but spoke to another traveler who did it in parks and public gardens. It's not clear how the authorities feel about this, but he said nobody ever bothered him. Actually people assumed he was homeless and sometime left him food. It took some logistics as he had to lock his luggage during the day and find a camping spot at night. But for his effort, he was able to travel for less than $40 a day!
Accommodation Reviews
Tokyo – Kangaroo Hotel and Kangaroo Hotel Side B | Neemod score 8.5
1 Chome-21-11 Nihonzutsumi, Taito City
These are the $22.49 hotel rooms I was talking about. Rooms here get booked quickly. The two sister hotels face each other on a quiet side street. You have a choice between Western rooms and Japanese rooms with futons on the floor. I stayed on both sides and the western beds were not the most comfortable but OK for a few nights.
Considering the price it's hard to find any other faults with these hotels. The rooms are obviously small but have TVs, a small fridge, and hooks on the walls to hand your clothes. The interiors are super clean and modern. Each hotel has only one smallish common area, but you have access to two of them simply by crossing the street. They are also nicely decorated and have a cozy feeling about them.
There is no kitchen, but you can microwave your dinners. The crowd is quiet and is mostly younger locals. The walls are very solid, so you can expect to have no issues with noise here.
Tokyo – Hotel Palace Japan | Neemod Score 7.5
2 Chome-31-6 Kiyokawa, Taito City
When both Kangaroos got completely booked over the weekend I moved to this hotel in the same neighborhood. It's closer to the train and sits on a main road. All rooms face this road, but I was relieved to discover the window panes provided good soundproofing.
I got a private room for only $29.46 with a bunk bed that could sleep two people. The mattresses were very thin. I just piled them together and that was adequate. The pillows were Japanese style with beads inside. The hotel gave me a Western pillow upon request.
The hotel won't win any design awards, but everything is very clean. There is a real kitchen that guests can use. It is also one of the only accommodation options I used in Japan that allowed wearing shoes inside.
Mount Fuji Hostel Fujisan YOU | Neemod Score – 9
1 Chome-9-12 Kamiyoshida, Fujiyoshida.
An origami bird waited on my pillow when I checked into this lovely host
el, one of my favorites in Japan, and not just because of the Mt. Fuji views.
There is just something very homey about it and the patient manner of the owner immediately puts you at ease. It has traditional touches and has all those little details that make it memorable.
There is a small kitchen and a good free breakfast with home-baked bread is included. I loved the ninja stickers on the walls and the automatic bathrooms were the best I have seen in Japan. The beds are comfortable and have curtains for extra privacy and light blocking.
The location is very close to the bus station and near lots of restaurants. Chureito Pagoda, with one of the most iconic photo opportunities in Japan, is about 25 minutes walking.
Takayama – Relax Hoste, Takayama station | Neemod Score – 9
506-0026 Gifu, Takayama
Am I really getting a private room here for only $21/night? That is the impression I got from looking at the hostel profile on Booking.com. So I booked it out of curiosity and this is where I found out about cabins (which are listed online as dormitories). Certainly a great discovery. Size wise I had a hard time even fitting my backpack by the bed, but I didn't mind it as the beds themselves were comfortable. Each cabin-dormitory floor had a balcony for some sunlight and fresh air (not a given with cabins or capsules hotels).
Cleanliness was spotless. The communal kitchen was one of the best I have seen in Japan. Large lockers were provided on the main floor and each cabin had a small private safe. There was also a good washing machine room.
The location is just across from the train/bus station. The staff was super friendly and accommodating. This is a comfortable quality hostel that certainly invites relaxation. There was a good mix here between locals and international travelers. The only improvement would be to see more sofas in the living room instead of just chairs.
You can also book a real private room and even bunk beds for as low as $17 (if you have a group of six people). As for the cabins, a wider option for $2-$3 extra per night is also available. It's worth it if you want to have access to your language and not leave it in the lockers.
Food and Dining
Self-catering, the budget traveler's most reliable money saver does not work well in Japan. The basics, rice and pasta, are affordable. But other groceries are expensive, especially fruits and vegetables. And I'm not only talking about those rare $200 melons. Apples (large ones) are $1.5 each. Oranges over $1 each. It's no wonder that cabbage is the main staple in many Japanese dishes. At least that is what a Shwarma street vendor told me when I asked him about the abundance of cabbage and lack of tomatoes in my pita.
I do like to start my mornings with cereal and fruit, so I had to pay for that. Sometimes when I was heading to a touristy place I would pack sandwiches for lunch.
But mostly, as I said earlier, it wasn't hard finding outside eating options for $5-$6 per meal. There was always a cheap Gyudon or Ramen restaurant somewhere. The challenge was not the price but making an order. Sometimes you can just point at the menu as most have pictures or, even better, there are plastic or wax food replicas at the window (truly a local art form). But the problem is that most cheap places have ticket vending machines where you are supposed to pay for the dish. Even those with English options can be confusing, but someone will usually come to your help.
Other than cheap restaurants there are numerous 7-Eleven, Lawson, FamilyMart, and other convenient stores. They carry packed meals or good-value Bento boxes with cooked vegetables, meat or fish, and rice or noodles. These and their sandwiches are surprisingly decent. Onigiri, Japanese rice balls, are a good quick fix at only about $1 each.
For better quality visit supermarkets and department stores in the evening when prices are deeply discounted, as much as 50%. But be warned about the latter. The food floors in Japanese department stores will assault your senses with exotic smells, sights, and temptations. It is hard not to buy more than your planned.
Japan is one of the best culinary destinations in the world, so do let yourself splurge once in a while visiting those department stores or the equally wonderfully tempting markets. $15-$20 should be fine for tasting a few exotic dishes.
Also, budget a minimum of $30 for at least one decent Sushi sampling. I can tell you all the Sushi I ever had paled in comparison to the one I ate in Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market where the fish was so fresh and delicate that it literally melted in my mouth.
Sightseeing and Activities
As you can see from my $2.73 daily average, when it comes to activities and sightseeing Japan will NOT bust your budget. Not at all! While it has amazing mountain scenery with excellent hiking opportunities and world-class skiing, it is not an expensive adventure destination. You don't come to Japan for pricey Bungee jumping, rafting, or safaris but mostly for the cultural experience. Festivals and strolling through markets and colorful streets for a first-hand take on this unique culture are completely free.
My most expensive activity was the $46.2 round-trip transportation to the stunning Kamikochi Valley. But the park itself was free! I also paid $29.03 for the transportation and cable car to the highlands of Hakuba in the Japanese Alps. Again, there was no entrance fee. For a full day of activities these are more than reasonable.
I like tall buildings. The observation deck in Tokyo's Sky Tree cost me $18.89. While beautiful from the outside, I was a disappointment. It was too crowded and Tokyo's skyline is just too far and scattered to impress. In Osaka I paid $13.76 for entrance to the Umeda sky building. With an open-air panoramic deck, an impressive nearby skyline, unique architecture, and the world's highest escalator this was one of the best observation decks I ever visited!
One Japanese expensive unique action activity is dressing up like a cartoon character and driving a go-cart through the streets of Tokyo, Osaka, and other cities. Depending on the route and duration it goes from $58 up to $116. You must have an international driver license to enjoy this fun silliness (sadly I didn't have one, so this didn't get to be my most expensive activity). More details here.
Entrance fees to castles, gardens, and temples range from $4 to $10. These will soon get somewhat repetitive so you can stick to the top attractions. The wonderful Fushimi Inari-Taisha temple complex in Kyoto, with its thousand mesmerizing red gates, was only $5.38. The touristy golden Kinkaku-ji shrine was $3.67. A twenty minutes visit to Matsumoto Castle is $5.68. Picture with a ninja outside the castle – free.
Odd Japanese museums provided unusual diversity to my itinerary. A 50s-60s Japanese pop-culture museum in Takayama gave me hours of fun for $7.34. A fascinating music box museum in Kyoto was merely $4.5. A magic museum in Osaka was interesting (lots of how-they-done-it magic reveals) but a bit small for $11.
Other worthy Japanese-only activities you should budget for are a single-act day Kabuki Theater performance which goes up to $26 (the full evening act is over $150) and Sumo wrestling which starts at about $35. For Sumo there are cheaper tickets being sold (quickly) early in the morning of a tournament.
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