Africa's Best and Worst Day Hikes – Tugela Vs Kilimanjaro
- Neemod
- Jul 10, 2023
- 13 min read
Updated: Sep 22, 2023
I am kind of making a big claim here, having only traveled in six African countries to date. And yet, hear me out – I do think I can suggest a sure addition (or sure subtraction) to your hiking bucket list.
So what do you prefer? The half-full or the half-empty cup? Well, how about we start with the half-famous?
Kilimanjaro, Tanzania – The Worst Day Hike in Africa
Moshi
Moshi is a comfortable base to plan a Kilimanjaro climb. My trip to the nearby Materuni Waterfalls and coffee plantation was one of the highlights of my Tanzania visit. There is a surprisingly chilly pool at the bottom of the falls and you can walk a slippery path for a great behind the falls water-curtain view. At the plantation, I got to grind and roast freshly picked beans to the singing of my friendly guides. Coffee doesn't get any fresher than this.
In Tanzania, other than the bus station and ferry terminal, vendors and tour guides were generally not pushy or aggressive, a testament to the calm nature of the people of this country. Not that I can't handle touts, but it was still refreshing compared to some other parts of Africa (I came to Tanzania from Ethiopia.)
I did get sort of scammed by a tricycle driver in Arusha, who charged me a few dollars to drive me literally around the corner to my hotel. But he was an immigrant and taxi drivers can be like that anywhere.
Climbing Economics 101
Despite good conversations I had with independent guides and agencies, finding an affordable Kilimanjaro climbing package proved futile – nothing for less than $1200 for a five days climb. About 65% of this is collected for park use (conservation fees), a rescue fee, guide fees, and camping or huts fees.
National parks in Tanzania are generally some of the most expensive I have encountered. I'm totally supportive of conservation efforts, but at the same time nature should also remain decently accessible. Day hikers have a much smaller impact than a climbing expedition and I feel that the day hiking fee should be cheaper and more flexible.
This may help get more money in the pockets of the hard-working guides. But the allure of Kilimanjaro keeps climbers coming by the droves (about 30,000 a year) and negates any incentive for reducing the fees. Costly safaris are not helpful either – Africa is just not so much of a budget destination.
I did want to summit Kilimanjaro and I knew it would be expensive. It dawned on me that the cost of five days of climbing is more than a month's worth of traveling on my backpacker budget. Sure, what's the point of traveling if you don't do amazing things? But personally I found it hard to justify this expense considering I have been to other impressive (and much cheaper) mountains.
Instead, I decided to climb Mount Meru, the 5th highest in Africa, in nearby Arusha. It costs less than half of Kilimanjaro and people claim it is more scenic, not to mention you get a view of Kilimanjaro itself.
Still, I wanted at least a taste of Kilimanjaro and decided to do a day hike to the first hut. I arranged a deal with Juma, a guide I met in Moshi. His name was Juma and he had a winning smile and what seemed like a decent pair of hiking shoes (not a given thing I learned from a past experience).
Motorcycling to the Trailhead
Juma picked me up the next morning on a motorcycle he borrowed/rented from his uncle, saving me the cost of a car rental. I somehow gathered from him the motorcycle will have a sidecar. Why would I think that? No clue. And of course it didn't.
Juma's motorcycling skills were rusty and he lost balance a few times when we rode the streets of Moshi, not making me feel very confident. Things got better when we reached the road and I allowed myself to enjoy the ride. It was certainly an unusual way to get to a trailhead.
But... at the park entrance I realized my leg muscles cramped. The initial impression of Juma's driving stayed with me subconsciously and I exerted myself clenching the seat for the 90 minutes ride. I cursed angrily about not spending the extra for a car and tried to walk it off. I decided to try to hike anyways because it would be so frustrating not to.
In addition to having to pay the full entrance and rescue fees (there are no hut or camping fees of course), day hikers are obligated to hire a guide. Juma's friend joined us as a guide-trainee and my total expenses for that day were $127. Juma only got $42 out of that, including fuel and whatever he paid his uncle for the motorcycle.
Blue Monkeys in the Bush
We started climbing the trail in a forest. My leg got better after about twenty minutes and we were making a good pace. I wanted to reach Mandara hut before the clouds obscure the summit.
It quickly became clear that requiring day hikers to hire a guide is rather redundant. The trail was very easy – not steep and very clearly marked. It's very hard to stray off it.
We were in the bush (as they say in New Zealand) almost the entire way to the hut. There was nothing much to see other than a few shy blue monkeys and a couple of tiny waterfalls. I felt I was walking in a pleasant but generic nature reserve and not on one of the most famous mountains in the world.
The forest finally cleared just past this Mandara hut, but unfortunately the mountains were already obscured. Even without clouds, I doubt the sight from this point would impress me. Kilimanjaro, with its large flat volcanic top, doesn't have a sharp dramatic shape, which is why climbing it is relatively easy compared to other summits. From Moshi I did appreciate the powerful presence of its massif. But the effect was somehow completely lost from our vantage point.
We walked a bit along the rim of a forested crater and took a lunch break, looking down at some dusty plains in Kenya. It took about 2.5 hours to walk up here and about 2 to go back down.
Bottom Line – Kilimanjaro
I kind of feel bad saying the following, having made the acquaintance of the local guides who make a living off this mountain. But I just have to tell you my honest option. That's why you are reading my blog, right?
Had I walked this as a casual hike in a random location for a symbolic entrance fee, I would have felt there was still nothing much to write home about. Considering its cost, my expectations, and the hype of Kilimanjaro I regard this as one of the more disappointing hikes of my life. I basically paid $127 to walk in a forest and see a mountain covered with clouds. Even on a clear day I doubt an experienced hiker would be impressed by the views past the hut.
At least the weather was pleasant and the motorcycle ride was kind of fun on the way back, but that's about all I can say. Come to Kilimanjaro with the intention to summit it – that's still a world-class adventure from what I hear! A day hike is just a waste of time and money. Novice hikers on a budget may still want to try it if there is ever a substantial reduction in the day-entrance fee, one that will also benefit the guides themselves with a bigger potential market.
Moshi Accommodation
Kili Hub | Neemod score – 7.5
Kili Hub is an office and co-working space that also rents rooms to visitors and travelers. It was a bit far from the town center and most restaurants (20 minutes walk or a quick taxi-bike ride) and somewhat lacking in facilities, but the quiet atmosphere, super friendly staff, and comfortable work area were just what I wanted. It was certainly not touristy and felt more like I rented a living space in a nice building for a few days.
If you are looking for a social place, this is not it. At night there was hardly anyone around (staff or guests). For me, after months on the road, this was actually an advantage and is reflected in the score I gave it. It will work for you only if you appreciate such low-key accommodation or don't mind going out to town to socialize and coming back to a very quiet place.
A decent breakfast was also included. There is fast internet and a backup generator for power outages. The room I got was kind of no-frills but big and with a decently comfortable bed and a mosquito net (which I didn't use), although if you are very tall you may not like the bed frame. There is a small basic kitchen, which I was the only one using. My room had some ants in it, but they were tiny and didn't bother me. There is also a free pickup from the airport shuttle office that you have to arrange in advance.
Road Tip – Cheap Transportation to Moshi
I didn't even know about the shuttle. It is run by Precision Air or Fast Jet when their flight lands. I arrived internationally but my timing was good enough to catch one. You are supposed to show your boarding pass to prove you flew with them, but the driver just had one spare spot and didn't care. It cost me $5 to get to Moshi, compared to $50 with a taxi. If you miss it and can't find someone to share a taxi with you can try to walk or take a taxi to the main road (2-3 km) and catch a local bus from there.
Tugela Waterfall, Drakensberg, South Africa - The Best Day Hike in Africa
Baz Bussing to the Amphitheatre
Getting around South Africa was surprisingly easy thanks to the Baz Bus Hop-on Hop-off shuttle service and its competitors. In fact, it probably made it my most hassle-free budget t. There are similar services in other countries, but I haven't seen any that have so much flexibility in letting you choose your hostel.
Transportation tips aside, the point is that the Drakensberg mountain range is huge and despite the Baz Bus convenience I assumed I will need my own set of wheels for proper exploration. Luckily, Amphitheatre Backpackers Lodge where I stayed had a trail shuttle and awesome group hiking trips. I booked one for the next day... going to a "Tugela waterfall."
Sani Days
A few days earlier I did a couple of day hikes in Southern Drakensberg starting from Sani Lodge Backpackers. These were really nice, offering instant access to complete solitude in the wilderness. If you ever been on crowded trails, you can certainly appreciate something like that. There was almost something spiritual about the wide-open green vistas.
Southern Drakensberg is more about crossing the Sani pass to the kingdom of Lesotho – the highest country in the world. I also took a group tour there. It was a twisty ride in a 4x4 Landrover over the pass. We got to meet a witch doctor, do a cultural village visit, try some local food, and enjoyed a drink in the highest pub in Africa.
While all were fun activities they didn't exactly have a wow factor. Hence I didn't have high expectations from Tugela Waterfall either.
Being a Mountain Goat in Royal Natal
Back to Amphitheatre – early the next morning we were driven to Royal Natal National Park by our guide Seyu. He was of Zulu descent and had a lot of general knowledgeable which helped him hold a conversation with ease. His conversation with one of the hikers about South African history and world politics was fascinating, almost like a PBS radio broadcast.
The ride took two hours. We drove deep into the park to start the hike at an altitude of 2500 meters. Already at the parking lot, I felt this was going to be something special with powerful cliffs towering above an incredible valley.
We started zigzagging our way on the trail, gaining altitude and using a small ladder to climb one section (just a taste of things to come). We reached a point where Seyu pointed us off the main trail and up a path that seemed fitting for mountain goats. I thought he was joking.
But he wasn't. This may have been the steepest path I ever climbed. But I quickly realized that climbing upward was perfectly fine thanks to lots of good footholds and rocks to grab. I sped the 250 meters upward with adrenaline-filled joy and growing admiration of the foggy view behind me.
Huffing and puffing the group gathered at an altitude of over 3 kilometers to have an early lunch break. The lodge provided us with a nice lunch box including a croissant sandwich and a home-baked brownie (brownies just happen to be one of my favorite desserts.)
A Chock-Full of Wow Factor
We continue along the edge of the escarpment to the waterfall itself. And not just any waterfall. Apparently, at 948 meters, Tugela is the 2nd highest waterfall in the world (after Venezuela's Angel Falls). It cascades in five sections down the Amphitheatre – a rock wall 5 kilometers wide and up to 1800 meters high, one of the most impressive in the world. An Amphitheatre for the gods.
The flow of the waterfall wasn't very strong or wide (it can dry up completely during the year). And still, when I looked down the first 150 meters section I got a mild vertigo. It's not that I am scared of heights. But as my eyes followed the plunging water, I got this strange perspective of the altitude.
We were lucky with our timing but only had a few minutes to enjoy the I-am-out-of-superlatives views before clouds covered it. That was the one bummer about going with a group and having to stick to a schedule. I would have loved to stay here for another hour or two (the clouds cleared after we left). But as thunderstorms are common in the area I understood why Seyu wanted to push onward.
And there was one more amazing thing ahead to wrap up the day – a cliff descent with two 30 meters chain ladders above another magnificent valley. Security ropes were optional, and most of us decided to enjoy the thrilling experience and sense of height without them.
The wind shook the ladders a little adding even more adrenaline to the experience. Descending the side of a cliff without ropes made for a very genuine adventure. We hiked back to the parking lot, returning to the lodge around 6 PM.
Tugela Waterfall -The Bottom Line
Magnificent views, an exhilarating "mountain goats" climb, vertigo inducing waterfall, a jaw-dropping rock wall, a thrilling chain ladders descent, and a delicious simple launch with a tasty brownie. All of this for a mere $54, all-inclusive. What else can I say?
This is my favorite day hike ever. And don't just take my word for it – National Geographic selected it as one of the ten best epic day hikes in the world! If you want to make it even more interesting you can do it as an overnight trip, starting from the base of the summit.
You can find more information here –
Hiking the Gorge for a Different Perspective of the Falls
Royal Natal National Park offers plenty of other hiking opportunities. I wanted to see Tugela Waterfalls from another perspective and two days later I took a shuttle from the lodge for a day hike of the Tugela Gorge.
While not as spectacular, it is a very rewarding hike in its own right. It is quite easy with a very mild ascend and you should defiantly do it If you can't do the Tugela Waterfall for any reason.
The Amphitheatre ridge dominated the horizon as I slowly approached it on a trail running alongside and above a river. It was a perfect day for hiking. Clear skies and hot but not oppressive, just enough to enjoy the cooling breeze rising from the river.
After two hours I reached the fun part where the trail went down to the river and crisscrossed the refreshingly cool water. The water was shallow, but my river sandals were handy to keep my shoes dry.
I continued up the gorge enjoying the sights and sounds of rock pools flowing with the clearest water. The gorge is framed by the awe-inspiring wall of the Amphitheatre. Its narrowness emphasized the behemoth presence of the Amphitheatre. I have never been to such gorge and I felt a spirit lifting joy at hiking a special place.
I didn't have time to walk deep enough to the base of the falls because I had to catch the shuttle back so do try to come on the early side, also allowing yourself time to take a dip in the rock pools.
Drakensberg Accommodation
A quick tip – if you are self-catering and without a car, bring supplies for the duration of your stay as both the accommodations listed below had just some basic groceries you could buy (Sani Lodge did have a good homemade cheese). The lunch box I mentioned can be bought daily even if you don't join a group hike.
Sani Lodge Backpackers | Neemod Score – 8.5
A winning location, surrounded by mountains and greenery, makes Sani Lodge Backpackers instantly relaxing. It has this pleasant rustic atmosphere to make you want to read a good book in the homey living room or the garden by the small swimming pool. The kitchen is well equipped and there is a restaurant if you don't want to bother with cooking. The rooms are outside the main building and are accessed by a roof covered path so you don't get wet when it rains. Everything is very clean and the bathroom has those little extra touches like aromatic hand soap and soft towels.
I managed to get a nice private solo room for a couple of days. It was a bit dark (not a disadvantage for me. It helps me sleep) but very cozy. It had an electric kettle for morning tea, not something you expect in a backpacker's accommodation. When I moved to the dorms, I found them a little small but comfortable and of the same high standards as the rest of the place.
As mentioned before, another advantage is that you can hike a bunch of trails directly from the lodge. The lodge has laminated maps and trail descriptions you can borrow. You can even pay the park fees at the reception.
Tour groups stop here and I had to change rooms three times because of my tendency to do last minute bookings. The office allowed me an early check-in, so it wasn't too much of a hassle.
Amphitheatre Backpackers Lodge | Neemod Score – 8
With its sprawling grounds overlooking a prairie and the Drakensberg range the place kind of feels like a ranch, a camping ranch. It's very different than any other hostel I stayed in. There are lots of unusual art pieces, including shoes glued to a wall, scattered throughout. Painting and murals reflect the free-spirit vibe of the festivals held here.
There is an entire complex of buildings scattered around. The main building has facilities I have never seen anywhere else in a backpacker – including a Jacuzzi, sauna, and a small indoor climbing wall! A large TV room and a balcony with cozy sofas provide ample lounging spots. A swimming pool helps cool off.
The meals in the local restaurant weren't the cheapest but included alcohol. For self-catering, there were 2 common kitchens and the dorm room itself had a kitchen as well. Again, something I have never seen before. It was comfortable on the one hand, saving me the few minutes walk to the main kitchen, but not so much fun when a group of people woke up and cooked early in the morning next to my bed. Lockers were huge, an entire section of a closet. The dorms were a little crowded when full. There was no internet reception in the dorms – you had to walk to the main building, sometimes in the rain.
The place is designed to host a lot of people, but is large enough so you can still find a quiet spot in the afternoon when people are out on tours. While the dorm experience was just average, and the distance from the main building was not ideal, there was nothing much to complain about. It's not completely comfortable at times (and I scored based on that), but things are clean enough and not overly so as to take away from the character of the place. It is an experience by itself, a recommended one. I stayed here for an entire week, and not just because of the good tours.
An important tip – because of the festivals it can get sold out (even for camping space). There was one scheduled when I was on my way there. But luckily for me it got postponed. If you are arriving on the Baz Bus make a booking at least a few days in advance. If you have your own wheels, there are a handful of other accommodation options in the area in case the lodge is out of space.
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